A week on Madeline Island was like summer camp for grown-ups--a summer camp where you get an entire condo with queen size beds instead of lumpy bunks to sleep on, no curfews, and a full kitchen. We were spitting distance from the lake, a hop, skip and a splash away from the pool, and walking distance from the local watering hole.
Upon hearing where we were headed, everyone said, "You have to go to Tom's Burned Down Cafe. We can't explain it, you just have to trust us." Trust them we did, especially since every local we asked where we should go in the evenings gave the same answer: "Tommy's."
It's been described as the Carnegie Hall of Junkyards or a tree fort for adults. I would have said it's what P.T Barnum might have built if he had dropped acid in the 70s and never quite made it into the new millennium. On an island where a small bottle of vodka costs $30, Tommy's $3 vodka tonic was a bargain and a godsend (not that we'd know what local prices for alcohol were because we'd, say, perhaps, run out of what we'd brought for an entire week on the second day...).
Two nights running, Big10 and I were taken with a girl who showed up late in the evening, barefoot*, with the most beautiful dog following her. The dog kept a watchful eye as his girl bounced from one conversation to another, ever watchful, ignoring everyone in the bar but her. As a human, he would have been the creepy overbearing boyfriend who tears you away from your friends bit by bit. As a dog, he was the most charming thing ever.
Strange things, time-warppy things, happen at Tommy's. One night, we were all propositioned by the same guy who wanted us to follow him to a remote part of the island for a "private party." Yeah, I so don't think so. I can just see the headlines: "Local retiree exposed as serial killer - all that's left of a trio of vacationing friends is their teeth." That same night, we may have accidentally dragged a couple of poor UW Med students out of the closet before they were ready. The next night, we were invited to crash, of all things, a honeymoon. By night four we were regulars who were greeted by name when we walked in.
In the end, though, even summer camp has to end. We ferried back to the mainland, back to reality, and back to big impersonal bars where you have to wear your shoes and (wo)man's best friend can't belly up to the bar.
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* Suddenly, a long-forgotten story of a college friend's sister makes more sense. She went to Madeline Island one summer to go sailing. That fall, she put off college for a semester. By the time I heard the story, she'd dropped out of college and had been living on the island and off the grid for five years. When my friend tried asking her the whys and howcomes of her lifechoice, he always got the same cryptic response: "I don't like wearing shoes."